The door opens and we instantly find ourselves in a dream, populated by a multitude of sculptures of different shapes and colors, all realized by the famed sculptor from the coastal city of Durrës, Qazim Kërtusha. Located in the heart of Durrës, behind the central bus station, this studio has it all: yesterday’s nudes, tomorrow’s skyscrapers, today’s feelings. So crowded is it with Kërtusha’s creations and experiments throughout the years, that we feel lucky we have the artist himself as our guide throughout our visit in this unique museum.

Influences

After initially following sculpture courses held in famous sculptor Sabri Tuçi’s studio, Kërtusha continued his studies in the Academy of Arts, majoring in Monumental Sculpture. It was here that he had the opportunity to work with the biggest names in Albanian sculpture such as Kristaq Rama, Muntaz Dhrami, Hektor Dule, etc. This explains why, when Kërtusha describes his education in the Academy of Arts in Tirana, he says he simultaneously studied in the Russian, Italian, and Czech ones, listing all the countries where his professors had completed their studies. As such, Kërtusha’s art was, and continues to be, informed by his rich education.    

Immediately upon completing his studies in 1975, Kërtusha took the position of restorer in the Museum of Archaeology in Durrës. This particular position turned out to be another fortunate turn for him as, here, he became intimately familiar with the creation of cultural layers throughout time. He enjoyed this work for 37 years, participating in some of the most noteworthy archaeological finds in the country’s history, most impressively that of the “Gea,” now located in the main hall of the Museum. 

Sculptures

Though we have been listening to Kërtusha for quite a while, we feel we have fallen into the trap of a truly modest artist, that of talking about those whom he admires rather than himself. It is astounding, and refreshing, to see how someone who has contributed so much to the art and culture of a country demands so little attention in return. From his park sculptures to his portraits and busts, Kërtusha uses a variety of materials to mold his sculptures into the beautiful works of arts that they are. Deservingly, his sculptures are scattered throughout Albania as much as internationally.

Among his most renowned works is undoubtedly Aleksandër Moisiu’s 3-meter-high bronze monument, placed in Vienna in 2005. Other ones include the statues of U.S. President George Bush in Fushë Krujë and that of John Lennon in Durrës, the latter quickly becoming one of the most popular spots for photos in the coastal city.

Perhaps the most interesting works are the ones still found in Kërtusha’s studio, ones that the artist would love to present to any interested guests. One of them is his project entitled “Exodus,” a sculpture resembling a sea wave carved entirely in wood, a work that commemorates all of those Albanians who saw, in the sea, a path to a better life.

His devotion to this project makes us think it is ready to be undertaken but Kërtusha smiles and tells us this is the result of his fervent and relentless imagination. From his more intimate sculptures to those of a more national or patriotic nature, many are the works that will pull you into this sculptor’s fascinating world.  

The Artist and the City 

The relationship between Kërtusha and Durrës is that of an unrequited love. Among the first works marking the city of Durrës was the Mosaic, positioned in the city’s center in 1985. Demolished a few years ago in order to make place for the construction of the new square, Kërtusha tells us of his lonely struggle to protect the mosaic from destruction. The work, 22 square meters and composed of the strikingly memorable red fish, represents an integral part of the city’s memory. In his studio, Kërtusha still preserves a fragment of that mosaic, one he managed to quickly grab as the bulldozers persisted in annihilating the past.

During the course of our conversation, he informs us of several other works spread throughout the city, a great portion of which he has offered as a gift without receiving anything in return. Furthermore, it is he who restores these very same objects from the damage that time or other various factors inflict on them.

Meanwhile, we stop to admire several of his other works.

Renaissance 

In 1997, a year marked by violent civil unrest and a time of great chaos in Albania, one in which everything seemed beyond repair, Kërtusha opened a personal exhibition in the Durrës Castle’s Venetian Tower. With this move, he implicitly told his city that life has to go on and so does art, society’s compass which shows it the way back to itself.  

This period marks the time of the creation of one of the sculptor’s most emblematic works entitled “The madness of my nation.” 

This head of a man was composed of the original bullet shells used in that period, during which bullets fell like rain, with no concern for human life, indifferent and often fatal. The work was greatly appreciated by the renowned contemporary Italian sculptor, Arnaldo Pomodoro, who suggested larger dimensions (several meters) for the sculpture in order to maximize its impact. 

And, while 1997 now seems distant, only a few months ago, the city of Durrës recently experienced one of the darkest moments in its history, which spans thousands of years. The earthquake of November 26, 2019, left a deep wound, one that will take a long time to heal. Moments like this remind us of the great importance of artists, who make the difficult process of rebuilding seem possible. Such is the studio and, above all, the art of Kërtusha, whose persistence in creating and preserving beauty offers that most important of gifts: hope.