International Music Festival Heaven in the Southern Riviera 

Europe’s music festival lovers have invaded the small idyllic bays around Dhërmi. Stretched out on the pebbled shore, they listen to Arno Lemons’ funky grooves. Like in many other music festivals around the world, your eye catches brightly colored bathing suits, flower-patterned shirts, and socks trendily worn well above the ankles. Except that here we are somewhere new. We are at the first edition of Kala Festival (kala literally translates to “castle”), the largest international music festival organized in Albania.

In the span of a week, the festival hosts over 2000 music and beach party enthusiasts from all over Europe. More than 100 popular names of the international DJ world bring a new kind of buzz and energy to the southern Riviera. The spectacular shores of Dhërmi echo with soul, electronic, psychedelic, and disco tunes from dusk ‘til dawn.

The party scene is as unpredictable as the weather. The sun, clouds and rain constantly shift above the ever-increasing crowds, making the atmosphere even more exhilarating. Arno Lemons is playing at The Cove, only one of the four stages set up at this festival. The music continues until the wee hours of the morning with some parties concluding around 7 A.M.   

Not far from The Cove, a covered stage called Yacht Club hosts yet another popular DJ, Ross From Friends, whose funny name and tech house or funky dance beats attract a nicely-sized crowd. Alongside his more contemporary repertoire, Ross From Friends adds some nostalgic tunes, making the crowd sing along and grow wilder.

The festival organizer is Rob Searle, with Mainstage Festivals, a British company responsible for some of the most popular summer festivals in Europe. Searle had set his sights on Dhërmi for quite some time prior to finally selecting it as this year’s location for Kala. “I have been visiting Dhërmi for around 4 years now and have fallen in love with it,” he confesses. While locals are well aware of Dhërmi’s potential as a festival venue, it took Rob’s initiative to bring this idea to life. According to Searle, this year’s success went above and beyond everyone’s expectations. With the challenges that come with any first edition behind him, Searle is revving up for next year’s edition. Kala 2 is already in the works!    

Based on this year’s crowd, next year is bound to be an international affair. In addition to the locals, most festival participants are from Britain. But, you find Norwegians, Italians, Spaniards and people from countless other nationalities here. The various packages offered, inclusive of festival tickets and hotel accommodation, started at 360 Euros.

Kristina, a 37-year-old from Oslo, and her friend, came a long way especially for this event. Glitter covers her face while her forehead proudly displays the mystical symbol of the ‘third eye’, which in many spiritual traditions represents the gate to a higher perception. “I would repeat this experience over and over again!” she exclaims. According to Kristina, what makes Kala Festival a particularly nice experience is its relaxed and warm vibes.

The festival’s most recognizable uninvited guest, the rain, comes and goes as the participants move from one stage to the next. This is Kala’s penultimate day. By now, the participants are already accustomed to this capricious protagonist spontaneously dancing to the DJ’s music. Funnily enough, many participants will leave Dhërmi thinking of Albania as a tropical country when, in fact, this temperamental June has been quite unusual. 

One of the most anticipated DJ’s of the festival, who graced the Empire stage, is the legendary Roy Ayers. The Guardian tells the story of how his most iconic song was created. It was in the mid-70’s when Ayers, after spending a beautiful, hot sunny day in New York City, spontaneously thought of the lyrics “Everybody Loves the Sunshine.” He later expanded on this hook to create the rest of this famously energetic tune. The song became an established summer anthem since its release in 1976 and swiftly became Kala Festival’s hit song.

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Roy Ayers “Everybody Loves the Sunshine” ? Kala Festival #royayers #kalafestival #kalafestival2018 @kalafestival

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Before the party carries us into the evening, we make a stop at Royal Blue restaurant. At the moment, this place serves the freshest seafood in Dhërmi and boasts the most friendly and hospitable staff. Fresh grilled fish and shrimp and seafood pasta specials top the menu. The cuisine is light and simple, perfect to gather your energy and continue partying well into the night, without skipping a beat!

Though in its very first edition, Kala Festival already feels like an established tradition. Thanks to its impeccable organization, the experience feels as complete as it gets in the Riviera. The stages are arranged just so that you maximize time at the beach during the day while joining each party after sunset. The first days of the festival saw a stage at the spectacular Gjipe Bay, which participants reached only by boat.

Among the countless famous names gracing the four Kala stages, Tom Misch, The Black Madonna, Moodymann, Secretsundaze were absolute hits! Many other DJ’s also brought along their loyal fans from across Europe. In between shows, participants enjoyed yoga sessions at the beach, massages in the open air, as well as hiking, biking and outdoor tours of the south. 

But, another sleepless night awaits! We return to “The Cove,” by now transformed under the stage lights. The moonlight is beautifully reflected on the sea surface. We are ready for more!

We strike up a conversation with a couple of charming music festival enthusiasts from London. They praise Albania’s southern coast, warm and welcoming people, beautiful beaches and, now, cool music. Indeed, the Ionian seems like an ideal location for a music festival. Hosting a festival of this caliber was only a matter of time! The two Londoners suggest a new venue for next year’s Kala: Butrint National Park. They believe its natural beauty and ancient ruins would elevate this festival to even greater heights.

Meanwhile, the music around us becomes increasingly transcendental. A girl courageously sporting a disco ball for a hat hypnotically dances on the rocks. A few steps away, five people dance like robots, comically out of sync with the rhythm of the beat. The night is slowly turning into day. It is hard to believe we are crossing over into the last day of this festival. Somehow, the enthusiasm of the first days has lingered until the last few moments. At last, it seems that Albania is on its way to becoming an international music festival favorite!