Though no longer functional in the modern world, traditional costumes remain an important part of the identity of old cultures like Albania. The long history of the country is reflected in the evolution of its garments and xhubleta, the Albanian “kilt,” tells a wonderful story.

The Collection of the Anthropological Center XHUBLETA

For the last fifteen years, writer Luljeta Dano collects, preserves and promotes this treasure of Albanian folk dress, mostly worn by women in the north of the country. More than seven hundred items comprise the center’s rich collection. The latter includes all of the numerous elements that construct xhubleta’s intricate bell-shaped structure and various accessories, such as the knee-high socks and embellished belts.

The “native texts” of xhubleta

The oldest xhubleta of this collection is a relatively narrow one, of the Drini River region, known as xhubleta Pultake. Luljeta explains how the garment, though severely worn by time, yellowed and thinned, boasts wonderfully embroidered archaic symbols that can still be made out. Actually, one of the most fascinating elements of xhubleta is the system of symbols found in its decor. Luljeta beautifully refers to the stories told by these symbols as “native texts,” which need to be deciphered. The ancient embellishments and cult-based designs are not only beautiful but worth studying!

Xhubleta goes way back

Xhubleta is a characteristic dress of the Mediterranean Basin and originates from the Creto-Mycenaean civilization. The earliest Albanian xhubleta date back to the 17^th century, mostly in the northern region, Kelmend, Tropoja, the highlands bordering Montenegro, and in Metohija, (Rafshi i Dukagjinit) in Kosovo.  

Aware of xhubleta’s historical, cultural and aesthetic value, Luljeta spends a significant amount of time lobbying for its preservation. Through local and international exhibits, ethnographic studies, and documentary films, she hopes to promote and include this item in UNESCO’s list of cultural heritage, like the historic Albanian epic songs (and respective costumes) called “Epos of the Heroes” (“Eposi i Kreshnikëve”).

Xhubleta and tradition

Tradition required that the xhubleta be made at home, by young women on the eve of their weddings. Ideally, this would could become a competition, determining which one of the girls made the best xhubleta. The girl whose xhubleta resembled a sculpture, standing up by itself, without falling, would win the competition.

The xhubleta taken by the brides as part of their dowry were the wedding xhubleta,used for the wedding day and throughout the first year of marriage and which, afterward, was preserved for the day of death and the other xhubleta, for daily wear or events, like a church mass or other public outings. Luljeta tells us that in the homes in the mountainous villages, women claim three to nine xhubleta each, to this day!  

Luljeta confesses that, by the 1970s, the wearing of the xhubleta had run its course. The mountain women no longer wore it because the production of this special item had stopped long before 1950. With the return of the Logu i Bjeshkëve (a cultural event celebrating tradition and includes a beauty contest), the girls often wear the xhubleta inherited from their grandmothers.

Where in the world can you see xhubleta?

Presently, two of the oldest Albanian xhubleta can be found in two important European museums. The first one belongs to the 18^th century and is part of the Musée de l’Homme (Museum of Mankind) in Paris. Its name is the Colorful Xhubleta. The second one, called the Red Xhubleta, is located in Vienna. Furthermore, the New York Metropolitan Museum has a select collection of Albanian folk costumes which includes the Kelmendi xhubleta, beautifully adorned.